Obsessive Costuming Dude (Alex)
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That said, the DS9 and NEM uniforms were generally more refined and much better fits.
The issue is fixable … but it'll take some precision work and patience.
My eventual, updated TGW sewing patterns for these will be re-drafted to compensate for this issue.
With the current (Bad Wolf Costumes) pattern*, I believe you have two options:
1 – Simply lower the corners of the neckline. This is the easiest option, although it will result in a proportionately shallower yoke, which may not look “right” once it's all said and done.
The second is more involved, but will produce a better result if done well:
2a – Lower the corners of the neckline so they're flush with the division shirt neckline/collar (as described in #1).
2b – Lower the bottom edge of the front yoke by the same amount, taking in the difference from the upper edges of the front and side front body panels. (In other words, if you lower the neckline corners 3/4″, extend the lower edge of the yoke downward by 3/4″ and trim away 3/4″ from the aforementioned front panels to accommodate the deeper yoke.)
2c – Redraw the front edge of the shoulder point to meet the new front yoke seam.
2d – Trim away the corresponding amount from the front edge of the sleeve so it fits the new shoulder point.
I hope that makes sense.
Believe me, I know adjusting the finer details of these uniforms is like the domino effect … but like I said, it can be done with some rulers and patience! 🙂
Hopefully that helps.
– Alex
* For the record, this is the older/current Bad Wolf Costumes sewing pattern, not the as-yet-unreleased, updated TGW sewing pattern. Same with the post about the corresponding DS9/NEM trousers. 🙂
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I feel your pain … The originals often did that too (especially on Geordi and Data, in First Contact and Insurrection – see attached screencaps).
More in my next comment.
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It looks like the image didn't attach the first time for some reason? Hopefully it'll work this time.
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The curve is because the trousers (like the human waist) are slightly higher in the back than the front.
Your waistband facing assembly looks correct, although the orientation should be with the open/free ends flush with the center front of the trousers, and the center seam flush with the center back of the trousers.
Basically, wrap around around the top edge of the trousers, right sides sides together and matching the seam lines (side front, side, side back, center back).
Sew the facing assembly to the trousers along the top edge.
Then, in separate stitches, sew the front edges of the trousers/facing assembly together.
The only visual references I have handy are those already in the tutorial, but I did label the attached image to hopefully clarify for you. 🙂
– Alex
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The sewing tutorial is also available as a free PDF download. 🙂
https://doctorwhocostumeguide.com/tenth-doctor-costumes/brown-suit/sewing-tutorial/
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The costume analysis is also available as a free PDF download. 🙂
https://doctorwhocostumeguide.com/tenth-doctor-costumes/brown-suit/costume-analysis/
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For anyone interested in the Joker's ties, I've published an assortment of Spoonflower print designs that you can use to make your own replica tie(s). 🙂
Links to each are in the blog post:
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Congratulations on finishing the skant!
But I don't see an image attachment; would you share one (again)?
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Hi Kysaudra, and welcome. 🙂
A Musketeer costume sounds fun! I'd love to see some photos if and when you finish it.
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That fabric has a neat texture. Is it scuba fabric? I feel like I've seen it before …
Neat idea with the matching mask and patch, too! 🙂
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If you're interested in making a replica Joker shirt, you may find this blog post helpful. 🙂
https://obsessivecostumingdude.blog/2021/10/joker-costume-project-making-my-joker-shirts/
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I've also written a full costume analysis and posted it on my OCD blog, for those of you interested in an item-by-item examination of his amazing costumes.
https://obsessivecostumingdude.blog/joker-costume/analysis/
The analysis is also available as a free PDF download. 🙂
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Isn't it fun to gradually expand your costume/cosplay wardrobe? 😉
Great job, especially on the Voyager-era uniform!
The Riker pose and Harry Potter posters are fun too. 🙂
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Also, I daresay my TNG jacket pattern will be worth the wait … here's a little “sneak peak.”
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Hi Ben, and welcome. 🙂
I'm also a lifelong fan of Star Trek, having caught most of the last few seasons of TNG on TV as a kid when it aired.
The DS9/NEM-era uniforms are some of my favorites too. They're great uniforms but DS9 is my all-time favorite show, so I have a strong positive emotional association with them.
That's fantastic how you've branched out from costuming/cosplay sewing into tailored suits (etc.). I love hearing stories like yours. 🙂
And great job with your uniforms – especially that VOY jumpsuit and undershirt!
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That is so cool!
And great job with all the fitting – especially on your personal uniform. 🙂
The original gray fabric color varied considerably over the many years this uniform was in use, so I wouldn't sweat it unless you favor a particular color/production year. Dark gray, bluish-gray, purple-ish gray, neutral gray, light/pale gray … they were all used, so even when striving for “accurate” colors it's mostly a matter of personal preference.
And excellent job with the bunny, too. Did you name it Kukalaka? 😉
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Welcome, Luke! 🙂
And WOW, you have certainly been a prolific sewer! Good for you (and your family members)!
I installed mostly-hidden pockets onto my early VOY jumpsuits too, but beneath the side waistbands. They do make the costume more convenient for outings.
My ENT jumpsuit is my favorite uniform to wear out-and-about, too. It is surprisingly comfortable and it's nice to have pockets for a change, haha.
That's really neat about your custom clothes – especially the dress shirt you mentioned (with the contrasting trim and mitered corners). I've made myself several dress shirts, but mostly pretty standard stuff – no fancy accents like you described.
I'm glad you enjoyed the little preview of the sewing courses. Believe me, there's a LOT more where that came from! 🙂
And I too am greatly looking forward to finally tackling the TWOK-era uniforms, once I get these courses done. I'll probably order a custom chest badge from Xscapes too. Scott's really look fantastic.
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No firm ETA – hopefully this coming year (2022)?
My immediate priority is finishing these sewing courses, and then I have more TNG patterns to crank out before revisiting the VOY and DS9/NEM-era uniforms.
– Alex
